Mosaic Quilt QAL

 

#flyinggeesequilt #flyinggeesepattern #flyinggeese #quiltpatterns
Mosaic Quilt

Today is the day I hope you enjoy creating this quilt as much as I have. The pattern was inspired by a mosaic floor dated 150-200 AD. To make the quilt a little larger I added a flying geese border and what I call an arch border. The arch border also comes from an early mosaic floor that I’ve adapted to a quilt block. What drew my attention to this mosaic floor, all of the flying geese of course. Did you know what we call flying geese today have been around that long?

This is my first QAL I have hosted and I have never participated in one so forgive me if this isn’t your typical QAL. If you have not read my previous posts on this QAL here is a recap plus additional information if you have been following my blog.

It will last 5 months.

The first month you will be completing the 4 corner blocks. The corner blocks with seam allowance are 17.5″ x 17.5″.

2nd month will also be 4 blocks, these blocks will sit inside the corner blocks.  Think of a 9 patch block, you have the 4 corner squares, the 4 squares that sit between the corners and the very center block.

3rd month will be just 1 block, the very center block. This will also give you much needed time to catch up if you fall behind on the blocks from the 2 previous months.

4th and 5th months you will be completing both borders.

The 14th of every month a new download will be added and the previous months download will come down. Yardage estimates are given on the supply sheet for the entire quilt in the first month. The yardage is also broken down just in case you would like to use specific colors for the 2 outside borders and the sashing shown in dark blue in the photo below. The supply sheet, the color layout sheets and the coloring sheet are not duplicated in the March thru June downloads.

Before you print your download locate the size reference page. Print that page only. Make sure the line measures 1″ before printing the remaining file.  This will save on paper and frustration. If it does not measure exactly 1″ you could still use the templates as long as the settings remain the same each additional month.

4
This is the 1″ test line
#paperpiecing @flyinggeese #
Four corners. Do not join these blocks. These are your corner blocks.

 

The finished block measures 17″ x 17″ .  17 1/2″ x 17 1/2″ with seam allowance.

What is included in the February download.

2 color layouts. 1 layout with dark fabric for the sashing (rectangle) strips and 1 with the fabric matching the geese sky (background) fabric. This printout shows fabric side up.

1 Colored layout identifying the blocks and borders, fabric side up.

1 Coloring sheet to help you decide on fabric colors, fabric side up.

Supply list

Template pages

1 layout diagram for the current block. This will be paper side up.  Not only will the diagram help you identify template placement and geese direction, it will also help with color placement if you have a specific color order you would like to follow.

Size reference page. This should be the first page you print. Check the line to make sure it measures 1″. Your printer settings should be set to 1) no scaling  2) margins at .25  3) print to actual size. There is no way for me to instruct you on printer settings. This page will also give block specific information for the current month. It will tell you how many copies of the template pages you will need to print. It also instructs you on constructing the block.

There is nothing I dislike more than precutting my fabric so anytime I can find a way around it I take it.  For this quilt I am using New Aged Muslin by Marcus Fabric fat quarters for the geese and yardage for the sashing and 200 thread count natural muslin by Choice Fabrics for my sky fabric. All of these were cut into 2″ strips.   No other precutting was done. If you choose to precut further you will need to figure the dims for the patches. I do ask that you at least give piecing with strips a try first, you might be surprised. The time saved alone is well worth it.

Precutting

From assorted colored fabric: cut 44 strips 2″ x 18″ (if using fat quarters) or for 44″ wide fabric cut  22 strips 2″ x 44″ (see explanation below)

From my 3 fat quarter  bundles I precut 22 of them into 2″ strips that were 18″ wide. These were used for the flying geese patches on the corner blocks, all different colors. The first stack of 22 I used all of the strips.  My next stack of 22 strips finished out the remainder of the 4 blocks, with half of each of these 22 strips remaining. If  you are using 44″ wide fabric and NOT fat quarters, start with 22 strips cut at 2″ x wof. Depending on your comfort level with paper piecing these 22 or 44  strips should be enough to piece all the geese in these 4 blocks with fabric remaining from each strip. If you start with more than a quarter of an inch on any paper patch you may need more than the 22 strips.

 

For your sashing or rectangle blocks between the geese: begin with 10 strips 2″ x 44″. (see explanation below)

From dark blue fabric that I used as sashing between the geese, I cut 10 strips that are 44″ wide. The 4 corner blocks are complete and  I have yet to use all 10 strips. They will also be used in March blocks.  I suggest you don’t go wild and cut all of your fabric into 2″ strips. Doing so may  leave you with a pile of unused strips. When I add a patch to be stitched I barely have any fabric hanging over the 1/4″ trim line, I call his piecing tight. You may not feel as confident as I and leave 1/2″ or more fabric around the geese that will need to be trimmed. For these reasons, you are better off cutting your strips as you go. Returning to your cutting board to cut more strips is better IMO than precutting all of your fabric to fit each individual patch.

 

Background or sky fabric. Because these triangles are so small and there are so many flying geese in this quilt I started with 10 2″x wof strips. If you are piecing all the blocks with strips, this is the fabric you will have the most waste from.

 

Piecing with strips.

After sewing the strip onto the paper, trim as usual with your add a quarter ruler and set the strip aside with the angled cut. The next time you use this strip you will just turn and flip the strip at the best angle for coverage of  the next patch making sure the shape on the template is covered leaving at least 1/4″ for your seam allowance. See pictorial for photos. Instead of having a pile of squares, rectangles and triangles too small to do anything else with you will have  much smaller pieces and narrow strips to throw away.

The 2 links below are self described.

Pictorial created while piecing this block. Opens in new tab.

Tips and tools I use. May provide information you find useful. Also opens in a new tab.

Joining the templates to form the block

Organize templates
With layout diagram close at hand, organize templates to duplicate the diagram before joining.
Step 2
Join templates A & B. Join templates C & D. Then join the two combined templates.

When joining templates I only use 3 pins at a time.  Line up your corners with pins then place another pin in the center to make sure these lines are lined up. If everything is straight I then place the smallest dab of liquid Elmers washable school glue within the seam allowance and staying at least 1/2″ away from corners or heavy seams. For instance, in the photo above I placed 3 dots of glue between the pins. Finger press, then using  a hot iron, iron the templates to dry the glue. Naturally you do not have to follow my method, what ever works for you is fine.  After being stuck by a pin left in  a quilt in the middle of the night 20+ years ago and having one of my furry friends pick up a straight pin off the floor I no longer use more pins than I can keep track of. 3 is a good number for me.

Step 3
Join template E to your pinwheel block.
Step 4
Join template F to the top of the pinwheel.
Step 5
Join templates G & H, join templates I & J. Then join to the sides of the pinwheel block.

 

step 6
J
step 6
Join templates M & N and templates K & L. Keeping in mind my photo shows fabric side up and block diagram is paper side up. Join the M/N templates to the top of the block, then join the K/L templates to the side. Your block is now complete.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

© All rights reserved. Free patterns are just that.  You may download this free for each month pattern for your own personal use but may not offer it as a free download or for sale.  No sharing, please direct any interested friends to this page. The patterns I offer are either created by me,  created from misc. public  domain images or quilt blocks from previous generations. If you create an item from a pattern offered by me and post it online I would greatly appreciate a link back to me giving credit. By downloading this pattern you agree to the before mentioned terms.

Download the February file below

 

Download button

 

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11 thoughts on “Mosaic Quilt QAL”

  1. Gorgeous blocks! Love the inspiration. Thanks for linking to Wednesday Wait Loss. Even without red or pink this is truly awesome and I’m so glad you linked up.

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  2. This is a really fascinating design – I so wish I had time to devote to it, but I’ll enjoy seeing what others make. BTW, do you have a button for this QAL or should I just use the quilt picture? I’d love to list it on my Quilt Along page for others to find!

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    1. Thank you Susan. Sorry, I haven’t figured out how to do the button yet. It was just yesterday I discovered I could use my own picture as a download link. You can use the quilt picture if you like, just keep in mind the Feb file will come down when the Mar 14th file goes up. I’m anxious to see what others do with the design, I’m hoping someone does the sashing in the fabric as the geese sky fabric on the 9 inside blocks.

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